Unpacking the Capsule Collection
Swung over her shoulder, Bessie, the founder of r y e, names her beloved LINGWU bag as one of her personal capsule collection must-haves. Photograph courtesy of Christopher Wong.
Ever heard of the term ‘capsule wardrobe’? Like its name suggests, a capsule wardrobe is made of a streamlined selection of items that prioritises functionality, versatility, and practicality. Wardrobe basics and staples like tees, trousers, and simple dresses are pieces commonly found in capsule collections. What tends to set these workhorses apart are the finest of details and thought that go into each piece.
Growing ecological awareness has spurred both brands and consumers to become more conscious of the products they produce or purchase, and as a result, have begun to normalise the concept of a capsule wardrobe. To learn more about the process of designing for a capsule wardrobe, we sat down with Bessie from r y e to talk about how she develops each capsule collection for a trend-proof wardrobe.
The design motivation of capsule collections
After working for various fashion brands in Singapore and Australia, Bessie realised the “importance of keeping things real.” While it is crucial to be innovative with designs, the functionality and ease of maintenance of each piece is equally important, and neither should be compromised.
“I really like timeless, elegant, well-made, quality pieces with a quiet confidence, and I realised this philosophy works well with capsule wardrobes and collections,” says Bessie. The capsule collection model also allows r y e to break away from the traditional fashion calendar, omitting the pressure of the pace of production. Bessie does, however, try to put out four medium-sized collections a year of about 14 pieces each.
Regardless of the collection, r y e’s signature pieces, like their muscle tees and ribbed knits, are always available. Bessie also says that she tries to put out new colours for these pieces regularly.
“The intention always starts with how I can value-add and create modern sensibility in a woman’s wardrobe,” says Bessie. Simple, clean silhouettes also seem to be a big source of inspiration for Bessie and her team, as seen on the mood board in Bessie’s studio.
As for the colour palette of each collection, Bessie likes to stick to neutral tones with the occasional pop of colour: “I like a calming, serene palette. I’ve never been huge on prints — it’s too much stimulation.”
Apart from images that inspire her, Bessie also has a handful of sketches and fabric swatches up on her visual mood board.
The key characteristics of a capsule wardrobe
To Bessie, pieces that make up a capsule wardrobe should be classic, versatile, and durable.
This means that her design process has to consider the relationship between laundry convenience and natural or synthetic fibres. For instance, the ribbed knits she has designed, though made of synthetic fibres, “will last forever” and “remain in great shape” despite being worn repeatedly by the wearer. Modal tees and anything jersey-based also require little maintenance to last, making it easy for the wearer to throw on in the morning or chuck into the washing machine at night.
Pieces from capsule collections should also possess, as Bessie calls it, “styling mileage”. Holding up a pair of cupro drawstring flared pants, Bessie explains that “it might look like nothing, but once people touch and feel and see the styling mileage, they see the value in the piece.”
With minimalist pieces, everything has to be taken into consideration — product functionality, quality of design, craftsmanship, garment fit, and even merchandising. For Bessie, the hardest part — but most rewarding — part of designing each collection lies in product development.
“Not everything works according to what I imagine it to be. It’s constant problem solving and making wise decisions,” says Bessie. She adds that often, it is the simplest, most basic designs that are the hardest to perfect, as every tiny detail and inconvenience to the wearer has to be taken into consideration. For instance, a double scoop-neck tee to be released in an upcoming collection took as long as seven fittings to perfect. Most pieces take between two to four fittings.
Fabric pairing is also crucial in the ideation process. According to Bessie, understanding how a certain fabric drapes or pairs with a specific design is essential because a fabric might feel good as a swatch, but not be flattering for garment development.
Small details like pockets and panelled seams add to the functionality and uniqueness of r y e’s v-neck panelled long dress, while the natural creases of the linen blend lends a casual vibe to the look.
Is a capsule wardrobe for everyone?
Oh, if only it could be. Bessie is of the opinion that it is definitely challenging to eliminate the clutter in one’s wardrobe, and admits that this is a challenge she faces as well.
However, when curating a capsule collection for yourself, functionality, practicality, and versatility are aspects to think about. Knowing how to care for each item or material in your wardrobe is also important as this affects the durability of your garments.
When it comes to Bessie’s own capsule wardrobe must-haves, she shares, “I love a good range of classics! A dependable, crisp, cotton button-down shirt, crew neck t-shirt, a great pair of structured trousers, and a fuss-free dress that I can also throw on when I don’t want to overthink what to wear.”
By KIMBERLY NG of Public Culture, an editorial experience studio that believes in connection over communication. This feature was photographed by Christopher Wong for Boutique Fairs Singapore.