Toni Chan, August Society
Toni Chan’s journey into sustainable fashion is an amalgamation of her passions: travel, beach getaways, and a determination to confront the damaging effects of the fashion industry.
These are also the key factors that continue to drive her brand, August Society.
With a name derived from the Southern European tradition of taking the month of August off to enjoy time with friends and family, August Society’s values centre around love, community, and being respectful citizens of the world. The brand’s range of sustainable bathing suits and beachwear is ethically made using waste plastic at a factory in Bali that treats their workers safely and fairly. To minimise wastage, their swimwear is also digitally printed and presented in timeless styles that should last far beyond transitional seasons and trends.
We speak with Toni to find out more about her commitment to sustainability.
Toni, how did you get into sustainable fashion?
For me, like everyone, it has been a journey where I’m always learning.
Back in the day, I used to be like everyone else — I’d buy inexpensive, trendy clothes from fast fashion retailers and think I could donate away the problem once I was done with the clothes. But after starting the brand and learning more about the process of how clothes are made, I couldn’t turn a blind eye to everything I had learned — from the ecological to the human cost of the fashion industry.
Now, I’m very, very careful about what I buy. I rarely buy any new clothes until I have worn what I own to death and only then, do I replace them. I make sure that the clothes I buy fit well and can be matched with many things in my wardrobe. For special occasions, I’ve started buying secondhand, swapping, or renting.
“...I couldn’t turn a blind eye to everything I had learned — from the ecological to the human cost of the fashion industry.”
Why choose to produce with waste plastic?
Waste plastic was presented as an option by my fabric supplier because this recycling is done on an industrial scale. I did more research and discovered that this was the best available option to make swim fabric more sustainable.
The main challenge we have faced is finding factories that can provide waste plastic in smaller quantities, since we are still a small and independent brand. But it’s becoming more mainstream so it’s getting easier to find.
We know that producing with recycled plastic is a significant and well-meaning step towards eco-friendly production, but there is a trade-off — the release of microplastics into the wash cycle. What are your thoughts on the delicate balance of green production?
The challenge with swimwear is that there currently is no better option from a technical perspective than the use of synthetic fibres.
Even if you make swimwear out of say, organic cotton, you still need to mix it with spandex or nylon in order to get it to have some stretch. If it doesn’t stretch to be form-fitting, it will just be a soggy mess in the water. Swimwear also needs to be super durable because chlorine, saltwater, direct sunlight, and sun creams are very, very harsh. Natural fibres will not last as long as synthetic fabrics in these conditions, so you’ll just end up wearing out and throwing away your swimsuits more frequently, which then puts us back at square one. So, the best we can do right now is use recycled nylon and polyester – it’s the least bad option, if you can call it that. Or skinny dip, that’s the most sustainable way.
“The challenge with swimwear is that there currently is no better option from a technical perspective than to use synthetic fibres. ”
Larger and faster fashion brands are increasingly jumping onto the sustainable bandwagon and introducing initiatives to reduce their carbon footprint. What is your take on this trend?
I know there are a lot of people who are skeptical that fast fashion brands are “greenwashing” their marketing — in other words, making their products and processes out to be more sustainable than they really are. However, I’m of the mind that the only way we can make the fashion industry more sustainable permanently is if these large players take the lead to make the change.
Yes, as individuals we can do our part and it’s great that there are so many small independent fashion brands out there trying to instigate change. However, it’s the big players who have the budget to invest in the needed technology, the clout to use marketing to change consumer behaviour, and the production volumes to actually make any sort of difference at scale. Not to mention, they’re the ones who created the problem in the first place as well!
For example, take textile recycling — I’m talking breaking down fibres and spinning them into new yarns to make new textiles, not just upcycling used fabrics and sewing them into new products — right now, this is very difficult. It’s almost impossible to sort textile waste into individual composite fibres in a cost-effective way. However, the H&M Foundation is researching mixed textile recycling so that you don’t have to sort first, and it takes an organization like theirs to have the funds to do this kind of research.
“...I’m of the mind that the only way we can make the fashion industry more sustainable permanently is if these large players take the lead to make the change.”
Finally, do you have any tips for shoppers seeking to become more sustainable with their swimwear?
Make sure you know where your swimwear comes from and what materials it contains. Buying swimwear made out of recycled waste plastic is great, but in general, I would advise spending more on a quality swimsuit that will last you for years. Get a classic cut and colours so you won’t look dated, and look for brands that use XtraLife Lycra®, which is technology that makes sure the stretchy fabric keeps its shape. [August Society’s] latest pieces are also reversible and can be used for sport as well as swimming, so you can buy fewer pieces and use them more. Since swimwear can’t be easily donated and swapped due to hygiene considerations, the goal is to prevent fewer pieces from ending up in a landfill.
Designer Conversations is an interview series done in collaboration with Public Culture, an editorial experience studio that believes in connection over communication. This feature was photographed by Christopher Wong for Boutique Fairs Singapore and Public Culture.