Exploring Lab-Grown Diamonds
Like naturally mined diamonds, lab-grown diamonds are made of crystallised carbon, and no two are the same. Photograph courtesy of Scéona.
“Diamonds are a girl’s best friend” — we all know that cliché. But how much do you really know about diamonds and how they have evolved since Marilyn Monroe’s 1953 hit?
For instance, did you know diamonds can now be grown in labs? Lab-grown diamonds are man-made gems that are generally created by crystallising pure carbon in an isotropic, three-dimensional form under high heat and pressure. Beyond these technicalities, the end-product is very much like a traditionally mined diamond. In fact, it can be hard to physically distinguish a lab-grown diamond from a mined one, which shows that cultivating diamonds in a lab does not compromise the quality of the resulting gem.
In other words, yes, lab-grown diamonds are as authentic as traditionally mined diamonds. Or, as Scéona Poroli Chauveau, founder and creative director of fine jewellery line Scéona, puts it: “A diamond is a diamond, no matter whether it is grown in a lab or comes out of the ground.”
What then, do lab-grown diamonds bring to the table? Well, in terms of cost and sustainability, they’re actually making waves in the diamond industry.
Both lab-grown and naturally mined diamonds are graded equally according to the system developed by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) in the 1950s. Photograph courtesy of Scéona.
Quality gems at a lower cost
In 1888, British businessman Cecil Rhodes founded the De Beers Group and dominated the diamond mining industry for decades by popularising the perception that the higher the cost, the better the quality of the diamond. One of the ways that lab-grown diamonds have shaken up the industry is by delivering quality gems at a lower cost, disrupting this perception.
The production process of lab-grown diamonds is fairly straightforward, mainly involving technicians (who cultivate the diamonds) and gemologists (who define the nature and qualities of the diamonds).
Both lab-grown and naturally mined diamonds are held to the same universal standards when being quality assessed by gemologists. If you know your diamonds, you’ll know that these standards are characterised by the 4Cs: colour, cut, clarity, and carat weight. The lab-grown diamonds in the market today fare very well in these 4Cs, much like mined diamonds do, but they boast a less hefty price tag.
Furthermore, since the production of lab-grown diamonds is technology-based, it is not only possible to create diamonds of the highest quality that won’t break the bank, but also possible to control the colour of the diamond created.
According to Scéona, coloured mined diamonds are “extremely rare in nature, and are therefore incredibly expensive”. Naturally, coloured, lab-grown diamonds cost more, but never as much as coloured mined diamonds, which are notoriously expensive since they make up less than 0.1% of all mined diamonds.
In terms of the resale value of lab-grown gems, sceptics are concerned. However, this is still very much up for debate, especially since the resale market for lab-grown diamonds has yet to be fully explored. The growing popularity of these diamonds regardless also suggests that resale value may not even be that important after all to consumers today.
For a more detailed look into this, Netflix Explained has an episode on diamonds, which is rather digestible and informative.
A sustainable choice
A major impact that lab-grown diamonds have had on the industry is the introduction of a production process that has been viewed as a more ethical and sustainable alternative to mined diamonds.
There are two ways to grow diamonds in a lab — the first using a High Pressure High Temperature (HPHT) system, and the second using Chemical Vapour Deposition (CVD). In the HPHT system, a diamond seed is placed in pure graphite carbon, and is then exposed to 1,500C temperature, and 1.5 million pounds per square inch of pressure in a chamber, much like how natural diamonds are formed under high temperatures and pressures in the earth. With CVD, a diamond seed is placed in a sealed chamber with carbon-rich gas and heated to a temperature of 800C. After which, the gases bind to the seed, forming carbon atoms, and growing a diamond.¹ In both of these processes, a large amount of energy is required to create a suitable environment for diamonds to be formed.
“Lab-grown diamonds are not emission-free — nothing is, really. It is simply a better alternative through scientific innovation to mined diamonds with less land displacement and water usage, and it does not endanger human lives with work-related injuries or any illegal trade conflict,” says Scéona.
Indeed, the mined diamonds industry has faced some troubles over the years, including negative environmental impacts and the mining of conflict diamonds. Lab-grown diamonds have become one of the latest and closest alternatives, but they are not the first.
More than half a century before in 1892, Austrian crystal manufacturer, Swarovski, began captivating the world with their machine-cut glass crystals that perfectly mimicked the lustre of mined diamonds. Like lab-grown diamonds, Swarovski crystals became synonymous with affordable but unrelenting luxury, and have amassed a long line of iconic clients — from giant fashion houses like Christian Dior to celebrities like Beyoncé. The widespread use of Swarovski crystals by both jewellery makers and wearers today have also become testament to their evergreen popularity. As lab-grown diamonds continue to gain traction, it seems they may soon be following in the footsteps of Swarovski as well.
Luxury jewellery label, House Of Rajput, is well-loved for their stunning collection of statement pieces from some of India's most coveted designers — many of which use Swarovski crystals ethically sourced from Austria. The eye-catching Isla danglers, for instance, feature uniquely coloured Swarovski crystals that shimmer with every sway. Photograph courtesy of House Of Rajput.
Every piece of jewellery is handcrafted by a karigar (or artisan) in India, all of whom are from families that have been honing their skills for generations. Pictured here is one such master engaging in the delicate process of stone setting. Photograph courtesy of House Of Rajput.
What lies ahead
While many applaud the rise of lab-grown diamonds, it is important to recognise that they are one part of a larger trend of positive reforms in the realm of bling. Over the years, notable steps have been taken by the entire diamond industry to improve, correct, and counter issues related to its dominant production method of mining.
One of the main ones in place is the Kimberley Process. Established in 2003, the process aims to sieve out and stop the trade of conflict diamonds. This is achieved through stringent checks and controls and a commitment to transparency in the practices of participating states, as well as certified trading of shipments between member countries. Apart from that, the De Beers group has also been exploring ways to reduce the carbon footprint of mined diamonds, through a process called mineral carbonation.²
Along with the growing popularity of lab-grown diamonds, these positive changes seem to speak to the growing conscientiousness among shoppers and the business who make what we buy. This may very well spur even more transformations and better alternatives in time to come, bringing us closer to a more socially conscious future for shopping.
Looking for some new gems? Start buying better with these pieces from our community of vendors.
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Citations:
[1] Constable, H. “The sparkling rise of the lab grown diamond.” BBC Future Planet, 10 Feb. 2020, https://www.bbc.com/future/article/20200207-the-sparkling-rise-of-the-lab-grown-diamond.
[2] Mervine, E.M., Wilson, S.A., Power, I.M. et al. Potential for offsetting diamond mine carbon emissions through mineral carbonation of processed kimberlite: an assessment of De Beers mine sites in South Africa and Canada. Miner Petrol 112, 755–765 (2018). https://doi.org/10.1007/s00710-018-0589-4
By KIMBERLY NG of Public Culture, an editorial experience studio that believes in connection over communication.